爱华网【以及此答案也多图……流量党请注意】
一、常识类问题
1.香水浓度分级：
浓香水（）：20%—40%的芳香化合物香水（Eau de parfum（EdP））：10%-20%的芳香化合物：Eau de Toilette 5%-10%的芳香化合物（Eau de Cologne（EdC））：2%-3%的芳香化合物2.浓度和留香所带来的价格变化：
一般情况下越浓越贵，越浓留香越长。一般情况下越浓越贵，越浓留香越长。
3.香水的三调：
前调(Top)，中调(Middle)，后调(Base)（在后面会详细讲解一般的前中后调组成）前调(Top)，中调(Middle)，后调(Base)（在后面会详细讲解一般的前中后调组成）
为什么是金字塔呢？因为前调保持最短，中调一般，后调停留时间最长。
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二、香水香调类别：
这个表已经总结的非常好了，因为其实各种香调几乎都有一定的结合，所以这个Fragrance Wheel从一定程度上表达出来了香水非常细节性的香调分类：
此轮共有十四部分，大类分为花香调、东方香调、木质香调、清新香调（一般不会这么说）
花香调：普通花香调（新鲜花类）、柔和花香调（醛、粉质花香）、
东方香调：东方花香调（橙花、甜型香辛料）、柔和东方调（焚香、琥珀）、东方调（树脂等【笔者注：乳香、没药、安息香、苏合香、秘鲁香脂、古云香胶、愈伤草等】）、木质东方调（檀香、广藿香【注：大量香水都有运用这两种成分，该成分不能代表此香为东方调】）、
木质香调：普通木质调（芳香木质、香根草等）、苔藓类木质调（橡苔、琥珀）、干燥型木质调（皮革、烟草、雪松等）、
清新香调：果香调（浆果类、其他水果）、绿调（白松香、绿调）、水生调（海洋调、水调成分【注：由于此种香调一般为人工合成、并非自然界提取，所以直接称为海洋调和水调】）、柑橘调（佛手柑、柑橘类精油）、芳香调（薰衣草、芳香草本植物）。
其实现在对于香调的分类有很多种，基本上是随时代变化的。
传统分类：
The traditional classification which emerged around 1900 comprised the following categories:
Single Floral（单一花香调）: Fragrances that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower; in French called a soliflore. (e.g., ' Sa Majeste La Rose, which is dominated by rose.)Floral Bouquet（复合花香调）: Is a combination of fragrance of several flowers in a perfume compound. Examples include Quelques Fleurs by and by.Amber or "Oriental"（琥珀或“东方调“）: A large fragrance class featuring the sweet slightly animalic scents of or , often combined with ,, flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and resins, which bring to mind imagery of the Middle East and . Traditional examples include 's , 's and Coco Mademoiselle from Chanel.Woody（木质调）: Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of , and （沉香木、檀木、雪松）. Patchouli, with its smell, is commonly found in these perfumes. A traditional example here would be Myrurgia's Maderas De Oriente or Bois-des-Îles. A modern example would be Rumba.Leather（皮革调）: A family of fragrances which features the scents of , , wood and wood in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather. Traditional examples include 's Bandit and 's Jolie Madame. （西普调）(IPA: ): Meaning in French, this includes fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of , , and （佛手柑、橡苔、劳丹脂等）. This family of fragrances is named after the eponymous 1917 perfume by , and one of the most famous extant examples is 's.（馥奇调） (IPA: ): Meaning in French, built on a base of , and （薰衣草、香豆素、橡苔等）. 's Fougère Royale pioneered the use of this base. Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent. Some well-known modern fougères are Brut and Drakkar Noir.现代分类：
Bright Floral（将传统的单一花香与复合花香合并）: combining the traditional Single Floral & Floral Bouquet categories. A good example would be 's Beautiful.Green（绿调）: a lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type, with pronounced cut grass, crushed green leaf and cucumber-like scents. Examples include 's Aliage, Sisley's Eau de Campagne, and Calvin Klein's Eternity.Aquatic, Oceanic, or Ozonic（水生调）: the newest category in perfume history, first appearing in 1988 Davidoff Cool Water (1988), Christian Dior's Dune(1991), and many others. A clean smell reminiscent of the ocean, leading to many of the modern perfumes. Generally contains , a synthetic scent discovered in 1966, or other more recent synthetics. Also used to accent floral, oriental, and woody fragrances.Citrus（柑橘调）: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes, due to the low tenacity of citrus scents. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances. A good example here would be Faberge Brut.Fruity（果香调）: featuring the aromas of fruits other than citrus, such as peach, cassis (black currant), mango, passion fruit, and others. A modern example here would be Ginestet Botrytis.Gourmand（美食调） (French: ): scents with "edible" or "dessert"-like qualities. These often contain notes like vanilla, and , as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors. A sweet example is Thierry Mugler's Angel.【笔者注：美食调的概念有点复杂= =其实现在香水中的美食调仅仅限于甜点类，所以大家不要想到什么鬼培根啊肉类的东西，目前唯一跟咸的东西有关的香调只有孜然啊什么的，再就是芝士。另外，就像我之前在答案里面提到的，酒类和饮料类是可以在香水中模仿的！:D】
另外，香水中的动物香调也是有必要了解的：
麝香
首先，麝香。麝香是雄麝腹部香腺的分泌物。当香囊干燥后，割开香囊就可以得到暗褐色粒状物，品质较优的会有白色晶体析出。其传统采集方法就是杀麝取香，切下香囊再进行干燥所得。但这是一种非常残忍的方法，目前四川等地活取麝香已经取得成功。
灵猫香所谓灵猫香，顾名思义是从灵猫分泌物中所得。灵猫主要分为大灵猫和小灵猫两种。不同于麝香的是，雌雄灵猫均具有香腺分泌物，通常称为灵猫香膏。传统的方法也是杀猫取香，而如今已经逐渐被活猫定期刮香的方法取代。
海狸香海狸香的主要产地则是产自海狸生殖器附近地两个梨状腺囊，囊内的白色乳状粘稠液即为海狸香。采取海狸香时，将海狸捕杀，切取香囊，经干燥后取出封存于瓶中即可。海狸香是四种动物香料中嘴廉价的一种，用处较小，但可以用于清新类香型或东方香型。
龙涎香龙涎香由于其具有轻灵而文雅的香味，其香之品质最为高尚，是配制高级香水香精的佳品，优良的定香剂。其来源于抹香鲸的肠内，一般认为是抹香鲸吞食多辆海中动物而形成的一种结石，由鲸鱼体内排除，漂浮在海面上或者冲上海岸所得。主要产地是中国南部、印度、南美和非洲等地的热带海岸。
=============================================================================好了，接下来我们讲讲之前我要说的，一般香水的前中后调组成
三、为什么会有三调呢？三调一般是哪些：
Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious scent accord. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume.
【笔者翻译：香水的”香调”一称来源于音乐术语中的“音符“(notes)，这些不同的成分（notes）使整只香变得”和谐”。香调会随着时间变化，首先是前调，接着是中调，最后是尾调。这些成分是精细地根据各类香料挥发时间的长短来确定的。】
Top notes: The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person's initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume. Also called the head notes.Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior to the dissipation of the top note. The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. They are also called the heart notes.Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after application.
The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes, as well the scents of the base notes will be altered by the type of fragrance materials used as middle notes. Manufacturers of perfumes usually publish perfume notes and typically they present it as fragrance pyramid, with the components listed in imaginative and abstract terms.
【笔者翻译：前调和中调中的成分会受后调的影响，而后调的成分也会因中调的成分而改变。厂商一般会将一些典型的成分用比较笼统的方式写出（原文是有想象力的、抽象的），从而构成三调】
这幅图比较好的表达了香水的三调常用成分。
前调：柠檬、柑橘、佛手柑、薰衣草、柠檬草等等
中调：玫瑰、茉莉、紫丁香、草、叶、树莓、梨子、桃子、肉豆蔻、肉桂等等
后调：雪松、广藿香、橡苔、香草、顿加豆等等
总结一下就是前调一般是柑橘类（因为它们易挥发），中调一般是花果香类或者是香料类，尾调一般是木质类以及某些香脂类或者其他（包括动物香等等）
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四：香水有哪些品牌呢？这些品牌怎样分类呢？
有关于品牌分类，摸摸谢姐姐有个答案里说的比较好
在香水行业里面，香水一般分三种level，也是比较通用的：niche，premium market，mass market，除了niche有严格的限定之外，premium和mass之分通常是由产品铺货渠道和价格决定的，不是简单一个600块来区分的。
Chanel Burberry Dior等品牌，属于premium market。中国市场常见的雅芳玫琳凯，以及美国市场常见的Victoria's Secret、Bath & Body Works，这种被定为mass market。题主的同学说的40块钱香水，我推测连mass market都算不上，低端产品吧。
所以说呢，premium market里面其实基本上都是我们所说的奢侈品牌，也就是大家能在Sephora看到的那些，诸如爱马仕香奈儿迪奥古奇纪梵希范思哲卡地亚菲拉格慕巴宝莉宝格丽XXXXXX……
也就是我们所说的商业香。
niche market就是所谓的沙龙香了，我自己懒得说了，因为这个系统实在太庞大了，我给大家找几篇文章看吧。
其实你要是在百度里面搜什么是沙龙香水，你也可以搜的出来：
简介
沙龙香水，非主流香水，价格昂贵，走贵价路线的，强调个性与品味，通常设有自己专门的香水沙龙，并通过顶尖的精品百货、受时装界业内人士推崇的概念店发售，却很少进入商场专柜。
历史悠久的沙龙香水品牌，通常以替名人定制香水起家，并不考虑市场需求，也无需顺应大众潮流，香料选择矜贵又随心所欲，调香手法更是天马行空，有些甚至不是”香”的。
比如Creed为二战时期的英国首相邱吉尔调制的Tabarome，相当辛辣，混合了烟草、姜、皮革、铁盔、油墨味，才能”镇”得住军营里的硝烟炮火汗臭味，如今出售的，是比较薄透的改良版本。摩登的Demeter更是玩味十足，从日常生活中取才，有童真的爽身粉、蔬果味的荔枝、番茄，还有“不是味道”的雪、雨、圣水(Holy Water)，甚至床笫间(Between the Sheets)味道。通常并不难闻，但绝对意外，因为没有人想过要把它们“穿”上身，但是Demeter的目的，就是勾起你的回忆，是喜是悲是对是错，都是你自己的。
沙龙香水特点1. 大部分留香比较短。香水越贵，并不代表“留香度”越高。沙龙香水，在肌肤上的留香度，通常并不高，它的矜贵，除了特别，也在于所用香料的考究(舍得用最贵的花花草草)、调配手法的特别(或古法，或先进，或刁钻)。
2. 香水瓶比较简约。长方或圆锥形，瓶口密封度较好，但外观的花哨程度远不及时装屋和化妆品牌名下的香水古灵精怪。沙龙香水的卖点一般都是“香味”而不是瓶子。沙龙香水一般不会出一款香水就换个瓶子，有时候会换下颜色，总的来说大同小异。这可说是沙龙香水的高傲之处。
3. 历史悠久。尽管不是大牌，但至少不是小牌。很多沙龙香水都是历史悠久的品牌，而且是perfume house，不是fashion house。它们专注于研究香味的品质，而不是将注意力分散了去出时装。服装品牌的创建者很多都是服装设计师，而沙龙品牌创建者，很多都是“鼻子”。
4. 价格昂贵。历史悠久的沙龙香水，50ml的价位通常都定在100美金左右，是香水家族中的贵族。
5. 制作传统，概念先进。有别于大量生产的现代主流香水，老字号沙龙香水，仍然保留古法蒸馏提炼香薰精华，选料十分奢侈，也很挑剔。敢于尝新，是沙龙香水长期在香水界处于领先地位的原因，也在近年越来越受到香水迷们的重视。
不过呢，由于在国内沙龙香水并没有普及，人们对于沙龙香水的知识也有限，有关沙龙香水的定义方面，中文的文章还是有一定欠缺的。尤其是在品牌推荐方面，在这篇文章中，只提到了Creed和Demeter，但这两个牌子对于资深沙龙香水爱好者来说并不是常提起的品牌。我个人来看，Creed虽被归作沙龙，但有不少作品与目前商业香的风格异曲同工；而Demeter定位较低端，更多是重于噱头。
所以说这就是为什么我还是希望大家看看歪果仁的文章，因为歪果仁比窝们了解的多很多
毕竟香水这东西本来就起源于外国，如维基百科所说的：
Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient and , and was further refined by the and ..
香水，或是说香水的艺术，起源于美索不达米亚以及埃及，并被罗马人与波斯人完善改进。
以下文章转载自。
What is Niche Perfumery?
12/03/07 13:40:49
by:
Thinking about the notion of niche perfumery, we have done some research on that branch of perfume production.
Niche perfumery is an alternative to mass perfume production. Niche is limited by the clientele and therefore with a limited sale range, thus the goal of niche houses is not to sell as much as possible.
Art and creativity is in first place in niche perfumery, and as it applies to any other kind of arts, there is a possibility that a niche perfume creation will not be recognized and accepted. However, regardless of the risk, niche houses are appearing just like mushrooms after the rain because people, tired of mass perfume production, wish to have an uncommon and, if possible, personal fragrance. And so it seems that the trend today is to oppose the trend. And one more thing: we should bear in mind that the creation impetus of the artists-perfumers is one of the main reasons for establishment of their own perfume houses.
Some niche houses are more popular than the others and have no need to balance between the art and profit. Some of those are the houses of , , , Jo Malone, , etc. Some houses stand out even more and create their own niche within the niche perfumery. They differ from others by:
某些沙龙香品牌相对其他品牌来说更热门，所以对他们来说，他们无需在艺术和利益之间寻找平衡。他们中的有些是：Annick Goutal（安霓克古特尔），L‘Artisan Parfumeur（阿蒂仙之香），Serge Lutens（卢丹氏），Jo Malone（祖马龙）以及Acqua di Parma（帕尔马之水）等等。而另外有一些沙龙品牌则更加突出，他们在这些特点上与其他品牌区别开来：
Using exclusively natural essences（运用独特的自然原料）, including alcohol (, ,, )Fragrances of particular places（以某些特定地区为主题）—cities (the New York fragrances of , ), islands (), countries () or empires no longer in existence（或已经不复存在的帝国）)Using synthetic materials（运用特殊的合成材料） (, )Focusing on a single note, such as Rose scents（专精于某一种成分，诸如玫瑰） () orVanilla scents（或是香草） ()Capturing the scents of exotic locales（描述某些特殊场景的气味） ().Niche houses are so diverse and it is very hard to categorize them and sometimes even to define the olfactive groups of their creations. However, there are several basic principles that the niche houses adhere to in order to resist mass (luxury) perfumery:
Niche houses tend to have their own perfumer in charge of the fragrances of the house, just like it was in former days.【沙龙品牌有自己的调香师来管理其香氛，以往也是一样】
Niche houses have a selective approach to the distribution of their products. The fragrances of niche houses can almost never be seen in shops that sell mass fragrance production products, or in big department store chains.【沙龙品牌对于销售地点是有选择的，它几乎从不出现在售卖商业品牌香氛的地点，或是在大型的百货商场中】【笔者注：Bergdorf Goodman和Saks已经彻底把这条给打破了，By Kilian、Penhaligons和香奈儿迪奥在一起是闹哪样？】
Niche houses do not recognize advertising, apart from, perhaps, magazine articles and interviews in prominent media. For them, the best ad is their good reputation.【沙龙品牌一般不做广告，也不在杂志或著名媒体上出现，对它们来说，好名声就是它们最好的广告。】
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最后，对于啥场合用啥香水，窝反正是无所谓的。窝只在乎啥季节用啥香水。
BTW，我之前回答过一个有关于外行话的问题，在这里粘贴一下：
香水领域外行话基本就是：
1.哦我不喜欢花果香，都甜腻腻的
事实是：花香调也有炒鸡小清新的白花什么的好嘛！果香调也有苦橙佛手柑柠檬啥的好吗！！！
2.海洋调都好令人反胃
事实是：呵呵你没闻过做的好的海洋调而已→_→
3.用带麝香的香水会导致不孕嘛？
事实是：一，现在的香水中用的大多是人工麝香，不会有那种效果；二，按照平常人用香的量来说，压根达不到那个效果→_→
其实这已经算是入门级的外行话了，我们最常听到别人说的，让我们完全无力吐槽的话有：
1.男士香水就是古龙水吧？
答：…………
2.女生怎么能用男香呢~
答：同学你不知道有中性香这一说嘛！
3.那个香水好贵哦一定很好闻~
答：呵呵→_→。
与此同时，还有一些常见的误解我想要给刚入香坑的筒子们普及一下：
1.香调表有参考作用，但是绝不能完全靠香调表来盲买，除非你是壕！同样的香调，不同成分的配比不一样，效果会完全不一样，不合你意的几率非常大。
2.别人的香评也是不一定靠谱的，哪怕是大神的香评。因为每个人的鼻子是不一样的，有的人可能对某种气味异常敏感，有的人却对这种气味视若无睹。
3.同样的香，喷在纸上和喷在皮肤上的气味是会有区别的。很多香都会出现这种情况，诸如我喜欢的Memoir Man在我皮肤上会呈现出一种类似墨水的奇怪味道。
