爱华网 好吧，端午过个节都这么折腾...不过关于这次改名，把原来的Yves Saint Laurent改为Saint Laurent Paris，官方给出来的说法是为了更贴近品牌创立之初的精神和品质，也就是1966年的SaintLaurent RiveGauche的左岸风格。还有一种说法是，像Chanel、Dior、Versace、Armani这些大牌一样，只用创立者的部分名字，不一定要用全名。按照当初的意思，Slimane甚至要把Logo的三个字母“YSL”及全称都要去掉前面的“Y”和“Yves”，简称为“SLP”。不过最后定下来，只是改品牌的行号，品牌Logo不变（大幸）。到后来，连当年跟着圣罗兰老先生一起打拼的元老PierreBergé也出来表示支持Slimane，不过Pierre Bergé也是和当年老先生一样，看不惯TomFord和StefanoPilati的对YSL的改变的。他把Slimane称作为YSL家庭里的一员，也不认为Slimane把工作室搬到LA有什么不妥。不过，在法国时装界，关于Slimane把设计工作室搬到自己居住的LA，不以为然，有人认为这会是法国时装文化的“heretical（异类）”...
总之，经历重回YSL执掌大印首秀“宵禁”，到如今的“改名风波”，再到在LA做设计，Slimane同学——这位圣罗兰老先生的得意门生，可谓新官上任三把火，未见官先打三百大板，九月份的2013春夏系列，你若是不做得好好看看，我看你怎么镇得住时尚界的那一群毒舌猛兽？哈哈。
【fashionologie】原文
Hedi Slimane's first big move as creative director of Yves SaintLaurent will be to change the brand's name to Saint LaurentParis.
The switch was confirmed Thursday after rumors circulatedWednesday. Saint Laurent CEO Paul Deneve announced the news to hisstaff in an internal memo:
"I am very pleased to announce an exciting step in the historyof our brand and our business. As part of our strategy to becomeone of the world's true leaders in fashion and luxury, we aretransforming the name of our brand from 'Yves Saint Laurent' to'Saint Laurent Paris.' The new name of our brand has been sharedwith the media today. The brand identity and visual language willbe introduced over the next several months and will be fully inplace for the Spring/Summer 2013 collection. This change celebratesour legacy and heritage, while boldly marking our ambition for thefuture. It will allow us to return to the fundamentals of YSL andrevive the spirit and the intentions that reigned over the creationof 'Saint Laurent Rive Gauche' in 1966: principles of youth,freedom, and modernity."
While the name of the brand will change, the house's iconicYSL logo — a French cultural icon — will not disappear. However,Slimane also plans to reintroduce the original fonts that were usedwhen the Rive Gauche line launched in 1966. (At right, an adannouncing the opening of the store.)
Slimane, who took over the creative director's chair fromStefano Pilati in March, will present his first two collections —Men's Spring 2013 and Women's Resort 2013 — for the house to buyersonly. He intends to make his first big statement to the press withhis Spring 2013 collection during Paris Fashion Week later thisyear. When he assumed control, Slimane was given "total creativeresponsibility for the brand image and all its collections.
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【fashionista】
It’s understandable for a new creative director to want to make afew changes at his new label–wouldn’t that kinda be why he washired in the first place? But we just heard a rumor about a majorchange new YSL creative director Hedi Slimane is considering–andit’s pretty drastic.
A reliable source tells us there may be talks within thecompany of having the “Yves” taken out of Yves Saint Laurent. Wehear the issue was brought up by Slimane in the interest of givingthe brand more of a fresh, modern feel as he begins his tenurethere. Thus, our source said, the iconic YSL logo shall be no more.(Though we suspect, if this really ends up happening, YSL SL willcome up with something better than the above.)
Of course, this is nothing more than a rumor, but could youimagine? Calling the brand Saint Laurent won’t be too much of astretch, as people already call it that, but will we really call itSL (for SLimane?) for short? What about all the stores and beautyproducts and that iconic logo? Won’t changing everything beincredibly expensive and confusing? Would the value of vintage orpre-Slimane YSL then go up?
We also wonder if YSL co-founder Pierre Bergé, who has workedtirelessly to keep Yves Saint Laurent’s memory alive with expansivearchives and a foundation, would approve of such a huge change.
If true, this is a surprising statement for Slimane to make,given his past at YSL (he designed menswear from 1998-2000) and thefact that Bergé, who has been quite critical of previous creativedirectors, seemed pleased to have him on board and called him “amember of the YSL family.”
Then again, perhaps the company had already been consideringit. It’s not at all uncommon for storied fashion houses to go bytheir founding designer’s last name: Chanel, Versace, and Armaniare just a few examples. We can also understand Slimane wanting todistance himself from the label’s inimitable founder, whose legacy,as some of Slimane’s predecessors have expressed, can be difficultto live up to.
We’ve reached out to YSL (if that’s what it’s even called) forcomment and will report back when we hear more.
What do you think? Could Yves Saint Laurent just be SaintLaurent?
Update: This is really happening!! An Yves Saint Laurentspokesperson has confirmed to WWD that Slimane plans to change thename of the house to Saint Laurent Paris. And that’s not all.
Slimane’s inspiration for the house’s branding makeoverreportedly comes from 1966, when the company first introduced itsready-to-wear line under the name Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Heplans to use similar fonts and wording from that time. However, theYves, along with the iconic YSL logo, won’t disappear entirely. Thefull Yves Saint Laurent name will continue to be used for“institutional purposes” and the logo will remain the same.Phew!
The changes are being positioned by YSL as “restoring thehouse to its truth, purity and essence – and taking it into a newera” while “respecting the original principles and ideals,”according to the trade. The new branding is expected to beintroduced by the time Slimane’s spring 2013 collections hitstores.
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【fashionologie】
Pierre Bergé, cofounder of Yves Saint Laurent, said he supportsHedi Slimane changing the nameof the brand to Saint LaurentParis.
The move, which the house announced yesterday, is designed tobring the house back to its roots as a pioneer of ready-to-wear,and that makes Bergé "very happy."
"Anything that makes the house more Saint Laurent is welcome,"he said. "I am happy that Stefano Pilati is gone, just as I washappy when Tom Ford left."
Slimane will preserve the house's iconic YSL logo forinstitutional purposes but will employ the graphic elements andfonts Saint Laurent used when he launched his ready-to-wear lineSaint Laurent Rive Gauche in 1966. Slimane will also design hiscollections in Los Angeles instead of in Paris — and Bergé doesn'thave a problem with that either.
"The creative studio is in a designer's head, it resideswithin the person," he said. "Hedi lives in Los Angeles. He shouldbe left to do fashion in a city he likes."
