制表过程 怎样自学电脑制表
关于J?rg Schauer
1990, at the age of 22, J?rg Schauer becomes an independent watchmaker. His target is to manufacture high-class wrist watches which combine demanding technical solutions with exceptional design.
At the beginning, this target is achieved by constructing timepieces to the ideals of competent customers - the cases are manily made of gold or platinum. But soon he also starts to create watches pleasing his personal taste. Within 5 years more than 400 watches are made; they sell worldwide and make entrance into many collections.
1995 he carries out his plan to establish the brand "J?rg Schauer” in Engelsbrand/Black Forest, and presents the first collection. Trademark is a twelvefold screwed on bezel.
Design, prototype production, movement modification and refinement, case production, coating of the dials with fine lacquer and printing of the typographical versions on those - all this is accomplished by J?rg Schauer and his few, above-average qualified co-workers. (Necessary support is preferably obtained from suppliers of the region.)
This comprehensive range of activities enables J?rg Schauer to maintain the flexibility he achieved over the years - despite the switch to serial manufacture, customers can still have (serial) models which contains old stock movements or limited dials.
Schauers production is limited to 500 handmade watches each year. This makes a Schauer timepiece to something special and we hope that you enjoy the short journey through our webpage and the world of J?rg Schauers philosophy of watchmaking.
1990年,22岁时,J?rg Schauer成为了独立制表人。他的目标是结合特殊的设计要求与技术解决方案,制造出高级腕表。
在初始阶段,这一目标的达成是依靠向有实力的客户定制钟表-表壳主要采用黄金或白金。但很快他也开始按自己个人品味来造表。5年内有超过400支表诞生;它们被销往世界各地,并有不少成为收藏品。
1995年,他开展在Engelsbrand/黑森林建立“J?rg Schauer”品牌的计划,并推出第一代作品。品牌商标是12个螺钉固定的边框。
设计,原型试制,机芯改造及美化,表壳制造,表盘的喷漆以及印字-都是由J?rg Schauer自己以及他那支人数很少、具有中高水平的合作者完成(宁可从当地的供应商处获得必要的支持)。这种运作的合作模式使J?rg Schauer多年来能够保持他所获得的灵活性-尽管经历系列化生产的更迭,用户仍能获得装有古老库存机芯或限量版表盘的表款。
Schauer产品被限量于每年500支手工表的规模。这使得Schauer表彰显特殊。我们希望您能享受在我们网页的短暂旅程,以及J?rg Schauer制表理念的世界。
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Milling the gold hands
Processing the milled gold hands is a time-consuming task..
The lateral surface of the hand,for example, is manually filed (Figure 5), sanded down and then mattfinished (Figure 8). To obtain the round "indicator eye" (Figure 7), a stop-drill is used to mill a fine radius.
铣金指针
对铣好的金指针进行处理是个费时的工作。
例如,指针的侧面需要手工锉(图5)、砂纸打磨及亚光处理(图8)。为得到圆的指针眼孔(图7),采用限位钻头来精细加工。
Grinding by hand
J?rg Schauer loves surfaces.
This is why he always grinds them himself. Critical points,for example the surface between the lugs, must be arduou-sly ground by hand (Figure 1).Finally, each housing is provided with its final surface quality by using a special mattfinishing sponge (Figure 4).
手工打磨
J?rg Schauer 喜欢表面处理
这就是为什么他经常亲自打磨。一些临界点,比如表耳之间的表面,必须小心仔细地手工打磨(图1)。最后,用特制的亚光打磨海棉对每个表壳进行最终表面效果处理(图4)。
Printing watch faces
The prototypes, figures and special serial numbers are printed with the aid of a pad-printing machine by Schauer.
Years of experience are required to achieve a clean print quality. J?rg Schauer has been printing for over 15 years.
印刷表盘
原型表、数字、特殊序列号由Schauer借助一台移印机进行印制。
要获得清晰的印刷质量必须有数年的经验。J?rg Schauer已经印了15年以上。
Polishing the housings
This is Schauer`s favourite.
His unique polishing method results in a special surface. This is why each "Schauer housing" can be renovated to look like new, even after many years. This is highly appreciated by his customers.
抛光表壳
这是Schauer的最爱
他以独特的抛光方法获得了特殊的表面效果。这是为什么每一个“Schauer表壳”在多年后经修复仍然看起来像新的一样。这一点是他的用户高度赞许的。
Turning the housings
Gold and platinum housings and prototypes are produced on the company′s own machines.
During his early years, Schauer produced more than 400 unique housings made from gold, platinum and stainless steel. New models are therefore developed "on the machine" and on the arm of the watchmaker". In addition, the watchmaker really enjoys working on these machines, some of which are very old.
车制表壳
金、白金表壳和原型表壳是用公司的机床加工的。
早期,Schauer采用金、白金及不锈钢制造了四百多只独特表壳。新型号发展为“机制”及由制表工协助加工。另外,制表工们真的很乐于用这些机器进行工作,他们有的人已经很大岁数。
Milling / engraving
This is Schauer′s favourite machine.
Here, for example, he is producing the solid gold 18-carat hand for the single-hand gold watch. Rotors are, however, also used to create individual engravings (Figure 4).
铣/雕刻
这是Schauer最爱的机器
比如,这是他在加工用于单指针金表的18K金指针。当然,转陀也用于创作个人雕刻(图4)。
Pressing in the glass
Schauer watches only make use of sapphire glass.
Each housing and each base are glazed by Schauer himself or by a member of his team. Of course, all housing base glasses are made from scratch-resistant material (sapphire = corundum = hardness 9). This optimally protects your clockwork while still allowing you to see it "at work".
压装表镜
Schauer手表只使用蓝宝石表镜
每个表壳和背底都是由Schauer自己或团队的一个成员装镜的。当然,所有表镜都是由防刮材料(蓝宝石=刚玉=硬度9)制造。这使你在能欣赏到机芯工作的同时使手表得到最佳防护。
Grinding the rotors
The hand-made rotors are produced from German Silver and personally ground by Schauer, piece by piece.
The deep lasering is carried out by a regional specialist.
打磨转舵
手工制造的转舵是采用德国银为材料,并由Schauer亲自一件一件打磨而成。
激光刻字是外委当地行家加工的。
Pressing rotor bearings
The rotor bearings are the heart of the automatic winding device and must be made to fit exactly.
For many years now, Schauer has been producing the rotor for many movements himself.
压装转舵轴承
转舵轴承是自动发条机构的心脏,必须精确装配。
多年以来,Schauer已经为很多机芯亲自加工转舵。
Blueing the screws
Polishing, several cleaning cycles and careful blueing over a flame.
The result should be a beautiful cornflower blue. Schauer′s watchmakers can do this better than their boss.
螺丝发蓝
抛光,多道清洁,用火焰小心烤蓝
结果是获得漂亮的矢车菊蓝色。这道工序Schauer的工人们可以比他们老板做得更好。
Watchmakers
All of Schauer′s watchmakers have enjoyed excellent training.
This is your guarantee of reliability and the best possible service, even if it might take some time. Everyone is working to capacity and has been booked out for months in advance.
制表工
所有Schauer的制表工都受过优良的培训。
这是给您的可靠性保证和最好的服务,即使这可能要多费一些时间。所有人都在为产能而工作,并已提前几个月预定一空。
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