爱华网TechnicalConstruction Overview
Construction Details 做工详细
看以下英文翻译时参考插图可以知道具体是指裤子的哪具部位.
1 Waistband 腰头
Double layer self with 1/8" topstsitch all around. Inside isCHANSTITCH
双层原身布，四周间1/8"单线,锁链底.
2 Fly "J" stitchaned fly facing 钮牌J线
1/4" SNTS @ CF to bar tack. 1/4" Double needle for "J" stitch set 11/8" from edge making total fly width 1 3/8". Interior fly facingare overlock to clean. Horizontal bar tack at bottom of zipperopening and vertical bar tack at "J" curve.
间1/4"单线在前中至枣, 1/4"双针J线离边1 1/8",整个钮牌阔1 3/8".内钮牌边及骨至屈咀,拉链开口底打横枣和打直枣在J线弯位.
3 CF rise below Fly and CB Rise 前浪钮牌下和后浪
Front rise is safety with 1/4" Double needle and Back rise is FlatFell with 1/4" Double needle on wearer's left. Bartack at undercrotch to hold down seam allowance.
前浪散底间1/4"双针,后浪1/4"双针埋夹在穿起计左. 浪底打枣加固纸口.
4 Outseam 侧骨
Overlock edges to clean - press open. Seam to be starched andpressed open before the dry process. Cordstitch on back panel fromwaist seam down 8". Diagonal bar tack over sideseam at end ofcordstitch.
三线及骨,烫开骨,骨位是在洗水前烫开, 保险线长腰下8"间后幅. 保险线尾枣骑侧骨.
5 Inseam 底浪
Safety together, press to front leg. Edgestitch front leg
五线及骨,纸口倒前幅间边线.
6 Hem脚围
3/8" double turn to clean. 3/8" Single needle topstitch withCHAINSTITCH on inside.
3/8"卷2次环口,3/8"单线锁链底.
7 Back Yoke 后机头
Flat Fell with 1/4" Double needle topstitch on body panel.
1/4"双针埋夹,裤身压机头.
8 Front Scoop Pockets 前袋
1/8" Double Needle along sides and bottom. Rivets at outsidecorner.
袋口间1/8"双线.撞钉打侧骨角.
9 Front Right Coin Pocket 前右表袋
1/8" double needle on sides and bottom and 3/8" SNTS hem across,mocean rivet in top corner of outseam.
1/8"双线装表袋,袋口3/8"单线.表袋角近侧骨打Mocean撞钉.
10 Back Pockets 后袋
top edge is double turn hem with 5/16" Single needle across W/ChainStitch inside. Double needle starts at 1/2" wide at top cornerstapering to 1/4" at bottom corners. 1/2" Horizontal bar tack at topcorner.
后袋口环口间5/16"单线锁链底. 装袋1/2"阔双线在袋角顶& 1/4"双线在袋角底,袋口打1/2"横枣.
11 Belt Loops耳仔
All loops have 1/8" double needle centered on loop and are bartacked across the top and bottom W/loop @ bottom of belt loop. CBLoop is "is set on a "V" shape with rivet @ center of bottom loop,See detail sketch.
所有耳仔分中间1/8"双线,顶底打枣. 后中耳仔打"V"形,底打一粒撞钉,说细如图.
以下是批fit办评语:
2/3/10 - 2nd fit approved withcorrection, pls. follow all comments, photos and updated spec. forcorrection before submit PPS.
1. After change direction for slim fit, the result for thisstyle on this fabric S/B same as 5332 in general, high /low hips,thigh / mid-thigh / knee and calf S/B slightly bigger as updatedspec. pls. adjust measurement to meet updated spec. withoutchanging fit and balance.
客改slim款fit, 此款此布料與FALL'10 5332相同,稍加於上下坐,脾,中脾,膝及小腿,如客更新尺寸,平均地於前後幅,底浪及側骨調節依更新尺寸,不能改fit及平衡
2. Back yoke S/B as mock up from 5332 wiwth grainline follow CByoke seam, also re-shape little bit on back yoke shape as photosand adjust to be straighter look and more "V" shape, pls.correct.
後機頭布紋請改依FALL'10 5332 mock up - 2562 , 同時請重形後機頭另更"V"形,如客修正樣.
3. Front belt loop is slightly slanted, pls. adjust to bevisually look straight.
前幅耳仔稍斜,要直
4. Ctr. Back belt loop is little crooked, reduce ease to avoidthis problem.
後中耳仔稍灣,減少容位以改善問題
5. Front WB construction looks good on sample.
辦前褲頭車工很好
6. All measurements S/B within tolerance.
所有尺寸要於公差內
